Відео

It was a UV bulb, though seen through an IR filter. The bulb emits both UV and NIR, they just didn't bother blocking the NIR, just the visible light.

They are quarter wave rotators, you can learn more and purchase them here! www.live-lasersystems.net/d/rotator.php

Thank you very much. I always enjoy to watch your videos.

Oh the Lightwave Electronics HalfNote. I do have it here and I am working on higher current drivers a bit still. I should have a video on the HalfNote up later this summer along with some other larger laser videos. If you want to know more about the HalfNote in the meantime my friend posted up pictures and information about that laser system when he visited. ntenterprise.org/elec/lightwave532.html

@@Zenodilodon thanks for the link, it is EXACTLY the same laser as the one i play with at the moment

@@TeardownOZ2CPU If you need any help on it let me know. I know the unit pretty well!

@@Zenodilodon Thanks mate, I really like to know if the mirrors are mounted on temperature controlled moveable pivots ? the connection points to the mirror holders measure 40 ohm, so i guess it is for heating ? I also like to know normal operating temperature of base metal and crystal and laser, maybe that is my problem, I am not super deep into lasers, but I am EE and design electronics for a living, I really love to see my unit shine again, do you think that is possible ?

@@TeardownOZ2CPU You nailed it on the head, those optical mounts are on heating blocks for positioning. You will need 3 things for the HalfNote 20A capable PSU with constant current mode. A closed loop TEC controller with the capability to read a 10K NTC thermistor. The 3rd is a driver for the PTC heater for the KPT crystal. I recently developed a new PTC heater driver that uses bugger all for parts and has been tested. I can send you a schematic for that, or any of my work. You'll be able to get the laser going nearly effortlessly! Do email me Zenodilodon@gmail.com

The glass is so absurdly thin that it would be very difficult to change polarizers. The LCD panels are pretty reasonable in price if you don't mind 3rd party parts.

@Zenodilodon The problem with that is the limited amount of ips screens for the n3ds and n3ds xl's. I don't mind third party parts, but ips is rare and/or expensive. Swapping polarizers like we could on the gba sp and earlier would be a dream. Thank you for the reply.

I don't recommend putting mosfets in parallel, this can mess with things and I have has situations where instead of starting the osculation it turns on on both sides a bit more and cooks mosfets. I would just step up to using a larger mosfet instead for this application.

There is usually a max voltage lockout depending on the chip so the output caps don't blow and it doesn't simply freewheel. Someone had a damaged laser driver that drove up to like 200V which had lost this lockout. You can see what that voltage is by running the driver unloaded.

@@Zenodilodon 0.800V! Before the driver immediately started to warm up and drop the volts dramatically. Also my fingers drive 0.200V :D *(Whoops this is a cheap ebay dpss 532 driver) Im doing my 450 driver after bare with me because this is the 2nd reading Ive had on my multimeter. Which is a cheap manual knob 200mA limit: the option I chose was the V---(-) and not the V~ The technical meaning is beyond me I dont know all the numbers behind the LED, it must be a ball park based on its natural design. When I ignored the laser driver and lit the diode its one of those blinding ones and not the glass cylinder ones like you said

@@Zenodilodon ok turns out I tore open the negative connection on my blue laser driver and its broken. Oops, The other one! Has a .9mA reading from my AA, and with some rigging to get my AAAs to run in it read .8mA. After looking at a 1W 808nm diode data sheet saying the limit is .8mA which is consistent with my readings! Thru this I learned that the laser diodes will ask for the current needed for itself which the driver does not govern shown by what I just saw. A driver getting too warmer quickly from .9mA Now I know how to read mA from drivers!! :D which ill use for building my own. As well as knowing that cheap ebay drivers or only good for under driven diodes or Else oh yeah i learned that from ur other driver testing video with your "ohio" driver. I forgot this is still in one comment section

@@nuguns3766 No, the laser drivers are designed to govern current. The boost most drivers can still get pretty warm without a load since they are still boosting the voltage a bit high. There is a trade off. Say the driver is 1W package dissipation. That's say 200mA at 5V, but when you get to 20v that number drops to only 50mA, you could also be stressing the high side caps and that will put a load on the chip. Laser diodes and typically LEDs should never be allowed to govern their own current. Their compulsive little buggers with an insatiable appetite,

@@nuguns3766 Also, how are you testing voltages? The readings with sub 1V, where is any of that coming from?

Those are anamorphic prism pairs. They are for beam correction and you can learn more about them here. www.edmundoptics.com/knowledge-center/application-notes/optics/anamorphic-prism-pairs/

I tried to use a camera with the filter removed and it's simply out of the range of typical CMOS sensors it looks like. I did capture some of the beam in fog using my night vision scope and that footage is at the end of my night vision repair and options video. You will see the Obis in the thumbnail although it looks green. No matter how you cut it you'll never see the beam as is and it's about as close as I could get to making it viewable.

Thank you for enduring the ads. The revenue helps offset costs that I spend on making educational content. I have fairly asked my community if they would want ads or a private Patreon. They choose ads in a group vote. I have also kindly provided a donation link for the channel. Ads are easy, passive and do not require you to make an account for Patreon. They also cost you nothing and probably takes less time than making a fiscal donation would. Seems like a fair exchange to me.

Its okey Man, i was mad because they kept popping Up, but i understand. Keep up your content 👍👍​@@Zenodilodon

​@@elwaxindangui I really did try to work with people on this. I don't like at and still many of my videos only have pre-roll ads still because of it. I only make about $100 a month from UA-cam. I would really remove all ads on my channel if only a small fraction donated. UA-cam removed the ability to control mid-roll placement, removed overlay ads. And won't push a video without ads. This puts a lot of creators in a bind. They are now looking over the voice for " Like " subscribe " and so on. My viewers have brains and can make their own choice IMO. I also do not do sponsors, or reviews of garbage products. Not a shill, never will be, I've got my own drums to beat. That's just the reality from the other side though and I refuse to use an ad blocker myself and sit through the ads myself. I don't believe in double standards either.

​@@Zenodilodonthings are getting worse day by day, UA-cam is not what it use to be any more. I Hope the best for your Channel man there's almost not quality content any more

@@elwaxindangui I fully agree. The lowest hanging fruit sells better. Nothing either of us can do to change that sadly.

I understand everything, but I don't understand the zeroing mechanism

Mirrors are either dielectric or very reflective aluminum. I am almost certain everything in this laser is dielectric. The Dichroic mirrors/filters are dielectric for sure. The key is to make the optics as reflective/transmissive as possible. This keeps the optics relatively cool as only absorption is converted to heat. The efficiency of the coatings are in the very high 90% range, often close to 99%

This is a scary laser. I got hit in the hand with it at full power and it blistered for nearly a week.

About 300-350 mA is typical for these style of 532nm pointers.

Oh Snaps, I forgot to add that link. I just did that in the description. This is the video I used with good success. This does not contain the thermal feed back portion though as that I integrated in myself. ua-cam.com/video/498o4Tuprv4/v-deo.html

@@Zenodilodon thanks a lot! btw I think it would be very interesting to see a video about your version of the circuit with the NTC thermal feedback.

This was a custom project, these Lasers/comparable are bottom of the barrel at about $25,000 and can get as high as $1000 per watt depending on the configuration and brand of the components chosen.

The 1/4th jack and switch need to be closed for the laser to run. If that cable is unplugged the laser will shut off and you will have to wait for another delay cycle. I listed links in the description where things can be purchased. The laser heads and galvos where all very recently purchased and just used for this project. It's all in the tens of thousands when combined. Glad you enjoyed the build!

@@Zenodilodon that makes sense! I was pretty close. I figured 15 to 20 grand if you had to go out and source the parts new. I figured maybe you got a really good deal on some used modules or something since you're in the business. But unless happening upon a lucky miracle..... That stuff holds most of its value even used.

The total power optically is 65 watts. The least visible color range is indeed the blue end so that is often the most powerful. That and powerful blue Lasers are cheap. This balance of power can vary depending on the colors chosen. 635/520/465 can have a 2/1.5/2 ratio where as 650/532/445 is more 2/1/3 ratio for a good white. The fans in total provide 250 watts at full power of cooling. I am surprised you say you can't get a decent fan with RGB LEDs. Look, RGB LED fans are crap. These used server rated fans are made plastic that has fiber reinforcement for a reason. These where not only cheaper then RGB, but on average 4-6 times more powerful. Server farm class fans would just about chop up an RGB LED fan like an episode of " Will it blend?.. " Not sure what you mean by the case being full of holes. The fans do blow over the heat sinks and the holes have been plugged with socket screws. The breadboard coating is not important, but why scuff it up when a few cents of tape can ensure the job looks that much better. You wouldn't live very long on a planet with 130mw/cm2. Even at 1mw/cm2 that's 1000 watts/m2 That's the same power as an average microwave oven! Hence why the sun feels warm.

@@Zenodilodon my god, are they still doing will it blend?! 🤣 Wow I mean usually good ones tend to come with rgb lights and that's not something I ever wanted, or certainly they seem to be the most marketed, it's hard to search for fans by cfm output, or it was the last time I tried 🙈 Maybe I did my math wrong on the suns power I knew it was about 1kw a meter square but I not sure exactly how much that is (Google says 1380w, and nasa agree with me seemingly, at 137mw/cm2 at the equator 🙈) Holes? I forget slightly but maybe I mean the ones in the case already or the ones in the side for the old fans, I know the new fans blow over the heatsinks but it's sort of indirect 🤷 plus I think I misunderstood while you were building it and never update dmy comment, which I tried to do as I watched it, originally I was thinking how is he going to install heatsinks inside the case, but duh they went on the under side 🤣 and then I was thinking the fans would be blowing inside, which made me think of dust issues, it became clearer later when you made your cowling, I apologise for any confusion caused

@@phonotical You are right, that is the power of solar radiation. He completely messed up the values in the answer he gave you.

@@marianl8718 it's fine, I was sitting here trying to work out how I'd messed up

@@marianl8718 it's fine, I was sitting here trying to work out how I'd messed up

Thanks! The music is provided by some really awesome local talent I have met during my touring years. There is tons of good music from small artists out there!

When you get into the multi-watt range with show lasers you can literally hear the show on fabrics and walls!

Irreducible complexity is pretty much the sum of my answer. The less there is to fail the better, especially in a situation like this.

Ironically I have drilled and tapped my own optical breadboard at this point in M4. I may be the only person to both make, and unmake the holes in an optical breadboard.